Pagerwesi: Bali's Day of the Iron Fence, and Why Buleleng Keeps It Like Galungan

Bali is an island rich in religious traditions and sacred days, and Buleleng in the north keeps one in its own way. Pagerwesi, the day of the iron fence, falls every 210 days, four days after Saraswati. Across most of the island it is a morning of prayer. In Buleleng, Pagerwesi is celebrated on a scale comparable to Galungan. Families cook for two days, relatives come home and many carry a meal to the graves of those not yet cremated.

The entrance to Pura Dalem Desa Pakraman Buleleng in Singaraja, with a carved naga, a painted guardian statue and a yellow ceremonial umbrella under a large tree
The entrance to Pura Dalem Desa Pakraman Buleleng in Singaraja, with a carved naga, a painted guardian statue and a yellow ceremonial umbrella under a large tree. Photo: DayakSibiriak / CC BY-SA 4.0.
On this page
  1. In Brief
  2. Pagerwesi at a Glance
  3. Pagerwesi Falls on the Wednesday After Saraswati
  4. Pagerwesi Honours Pramesti Guru, the Teacher of the World
  5. Priests Lead the Rites, and Families Pray at Home and Temple
  6. Buleleng Keeps Pagerwesi on the Scale of Galungan
  7. Four Explanations Are Given for the Northern Feast
  8. Munjung Is a Family Meal at the Graves
  9. What Visitors See, and How to Behave
  10. FAQ
  11. Sources

In Brief

Pagerwesi is a Balinese Hindu holy day for strengthening knowledge and faith. It falls every 210 days on Buda Kliwon Sinta, the Wednesday of the week Sinta in the pawukon calendar, four days after Saraswati. Its name means iron fence.

Saraswati celebrates the gift of knowledge. Pagerwesi is the day to fence it in, strengthening mind and faith so the knowledge is kept and used well. It honours Sang Hyang Pramesti Guru, Shiva as the teacher of the whole world.

In most of Bali the day is kept with prayers at the house shrine and the temples. Buleleng calls it Pegorsi and keeps it as grandly as Galungan. Households prepare offerings and food for two days, and people working elsewhere come home.

In Singaraja families carry a meal to the cemetery for relatives who are buried but not yet cremated. The celebrations are biggest in Singaraja and the east of the regency, and simpler in the west.

Pagerwesi at a Glance

  • What it is: A holy day for strengthening knowledge and faith, honouring Sang Hyang Pramesti Guru
  • When: Buda Kliwon Sinta in the 210-day pawukon calendar, four days after Saraswati. The north Bali events calendar lists the coming dates
  • The name: pager, fence, and wesi, iron
  • The run-up: Saraswati, then Banyu Pinaruh, Soma Ribek and Sabuh Mas on the three days that follow
  • In Buleleng: Kept like Galungan without the penjor, and known locally as Pegorsi
  • The northern custom: Munjung, a family meal and offering at the graves of relatives not yet cremated
  • Biggest in: Singaraja and eastern Buleleng as far as Tejakula

Pagerwesi Falls on the Wednesday After Saraswati

Pagerwesi follows the pawukon, Bali's 210-day cycle of named seven-day weeks, or wuku.

The pawukon runs alongside the lunar calendar and fixes most temple festivals. Our guide to the Balinese calendar explains how the cycles interlock.

Two weeks matter here. Watugunung is the last wuku of the cycle and Sinta is the first. So the run of holy days that ends at Pagerwesi straddles the turn of the cycle.

Five days read as one sequence

The sequence is set out by Buleleng's welfare office and by the Singaraja academic Nyoman Suka Ardiyasa in Koran Buleleng.

  • Saraswati is the Saturday that closes Watugunung, the last day of the cycle. It is the day knowledge comes down to the world.
  • Banyu Pinaruh is the Sunday that opens Sinta. People purify themselves by bathing in the sea or at a spring, asking that their knowledge be used for good.
  • Soma Ribek is the Monday. It gives thanks for rice and harvest, with offerings at the granary and the rice jar. Traditionally no rice is pounded, milled, bought or sold that day (tatkala.co).
  • Sabuh Mas is the Tuesday. It brings worship of Mahadewa and a blessing for gold, jewellery and other valuables.
  • Pagerwesi is the Wednesday, Buda Kliwon Sinta. It is the fence that keeps it all.

Some years hold two Pagerwesi days

Pagerwesi is a Buda Kliwon day, a Wednesday that is also Kliwon in the five-day week. Galungan is one too, on Buda Kliwon of the week Dungulan.

The cycle is 210 days long, so Pagerwesi moves through the Western calendar and some years hold two. For exact dates, use our events calendar or Kalender Bali Digital.

Pagerwesi Honours Pramesti Guru, the Teacher of the World

The iron fence is symbolic. It stands for the inner strength that protects the mind and spirit.

Bali's provincial government describes the day as a time to strengthen yourself with knowledge and wisdom. It is also a day to ask for protection from Sang Hyang Pramesti Guru, a manifestation of Shiva (Love Bali).

The palm-leaf text Sundarigama, in the passage that Parisada Hindu Dharma Indonesia, the Hindu council (PHDI), quotes with a translation, calls Pagerwesi the day of Pramesti Guru's meditation (payogan). The nine gods of the Dewata Nawa Sanga attend it, for the growth of everything that is born and grows in the world (tatkala.co).

It is a day for teachers in the widest sense. Buleleng's welfare office names the catur guru, the four teachers to honour:

  • parents
  • schoolteachers
  • the government
  • God

Families in white temple dress and headcloths pray with raised hands, a small boy looking back at the camera Families at prayer during a Hindu ceremony. Photo: Wiaskara / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Priests Lead the Rites, and Families Pray at Home and Temple

The ritual heart of the day belongs to the priests, as PHDI explains it.

As Buleleng's welfare office reads the Sundarigama, the text asks priests to perform ngarga and mapasang lingga, rites of worship to Pramesti Guru. By the guidance of the texts, PHDI adds, midnight is a time for meditation. The priests' main offering is the Sesayut Panca Lingga.

Everyone else joins in as they can. Their offering is the Sesayut Pageh Urip, the offering for a firm life, alongside a purifying prayascita and the everyday canang (PHDI). The offerings a household makes vary by family and village.

Prayers begin at the family shrine in the house compound and continue at the family and village temples (Buleleng welfare office). For what these offerings are made of, see Balinese offerings explained.

Buleleng Keeps Pagerwesi on the Scale of Galungan

In Buleleng, Pagerwesi is a holy day kept on a scale comparable to Galungan and Kuningan. People call it Rainan Pegorsi, or simply Pegorsi.

In Singaraja the two days before are called penyajaan and penampahan. They are taken up with making offerings and cooking, above all lawar, the minced, spiced dish.

Unlike Galungan, Pagerwesi is not marked by penjor, the tall bamboo poles, along the roads (NusaBali).

Buleleng people who live and work away make a point of coming home. They come to see their families and pray at the family temple.

The black stone padmasana shrine of Pura Jagatnatha in Singaraja above a lily pond, under a blue sky Pura Jagatnatha in Singaraja. Photo: DayakSibiriak / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Four Explanations Are Given for the Northern Feast

There is no single definitive explanation for the scale of the celebrations in Buleleng. Four commonly cited explanations offer some insight.

  • The elders' instruction. A petuah, advice handed down from Buleleng's forebears, tells their descendants to keep Pagerwesi wholeheartedly. It is a strengthening of body and soul, as Galungan marks the victory of dharma. Nyoman Suka Ardiyasa of the state Hindu college in Singaraja gave this account to Koran Buleleng. The rector of Institut Mpu Kuturan gave the same account to Bali Post.
  • Local custom. Hindu law recognises tradition, acara, as a source of dharma beside scripture. Custom that holds in one place, loka dresta, can shape how a holy day is kept there, a Singaraja lecturer told NusaBali.
  • East and west. Buleleng was once divided into Dangin Enjung, the east, and Dauh Enjung, the west. The east took the Shaivite teaching of Siwa Pasupata and the west Mahayana Buddhism. Today the big celebrations run from Buleleng district east to Tejakula. Gerokgak and Busungbiu in the west keep the day simply (Koran Buleleng).
  • The old capital. The Buleleng regency quotes a Hindu religious counsellor in Kubutambahan. The counsellor ties the grandeur to Buleleng's past as the seat of Dutch government over the Lesser Sunda Islands. The history of north Bali tells that story.

The same counsellor describes what the day looks like. There are ceremonies at Pura Jagatnatha in Singaraja and at the village temples, and prayers to the ancestors at the family shrines. Families visit the cemetery with punjung.

Munjung Is a Family Meal at the Graves

Munjung is Buleleng's own Pagerwesi custom.

Bali's provincial government names it among the customs that set the north's Pagerwesi apart (Love Bali).

In Bali the dead are cremated, but not always at once. A family may bury a relative first and hold the ngaben later.

On Pagerwesi morning, families go to the setra, the village cemetery, with a punjung for those still buried. The punjung is a meal of rice and meat dishes, with drinks and Balinese cakes. Sometimes it includes a favourite food of the person who has died.

They lay it on the grave, pray and then eat together (Koran Buleleng).

A Pagerwesi morning at Setra Buleleng

A reporter for tatkala.co spent a Pagerwesi morning at Setra Buleleng on Jalan Gajah Mada. The cemetery lies next to the Pura Dalem of the customary village.

Families came after praying at home or at the Pura Dalem, carrying mats, plates and full meals. To an unfamiliar observer the gathering might look like a picnic, though it is a meaningful religious and family tradition.

One man told him his family had risen before dawn to pray at home and at the temple. They had come on to the graves and would gather at home afterwards.

The heroes' cemetery, and why munjung will last

Families also bring punjung to the heroes' cemetery, Taman Makam Pahlawan Curastana in Singaraja, where independence fighters are buried. They come on Galungan and Kuningan as well, and some on 17 August too (Koran Buleleng).

Fewer families munjung than before, the head of the customary village of Buleleng told the same paper. Most now go straight to cremation, he explained.

It will last, he said, because Banjar Jawa still buries its dead before the ngaben. Banjar Jawa is one of the village's neighbourhoods.

What Visitors See, and How to Behave

  • The two days before. Households are busy with offerings and cooking. It is the same work that comes before Galungan, without the penjor along the roads.
  • Pagerwesi morning. Families in temple dress are on their way to shrines and temples. The celebrations are biggest in Singaraja and the villages to its east. For how to dress and behave, read Bali temple etiquette and understanding Balinese ceremonies.
  • The cemeteries. Munjung is a family's private time with its dead. Watch from a distance, if at all. Ask before you photograph a family at a grave.
  • The rest of the week. On Banyu Pinaruh, the Sunday before, people bathe in the sea or at springs. Melukat, water purification explains the idea behind it.

Singaraja is a short drive east of Lovina, where most of Palm Living's villas are. A Pagerwesi morning in the old town is easy to reach from the coast. For the town itself, see Singaraja old town.

FAQ

What is Pagerwesi? Pagerwesi is a Balinese Hindu holy day for strengthening knowledge and faith. It honours Sang Hyang Pramesti Guru, Shiva as the teacher of the world. Its name means iron fence, because the knowledge received at Saraswati is fenced in and kept.

When is Pagerwesi? Pagerwesi falls on Buda Kliwon Sinta, a Wednesday in the 210-day pawukon calendar, four days after Saraswati. It returns every 210 days, so it moves through the Western calendar. The north Bali events calendar lists the coming dates.

What does Pagerwesi mean? Pager means fence and wesi means iron. The iron fence stands for a mind and faith made firm by knowledge, so that nothing harmful gets in.

Why is Pagerwesi celebrated so grandly in Buleleng? There is no single recorded reason. Local scholars point to advice from Buleleng's ancestors to keep the day wholeheartedly, and to the force of local custom in Hindu law. They also point to the old division of the regency, with the grandest celebrations in Singaraja and the east.

What is the difference between Pagerwesi and Galungan? Galungan celebrates the victory of dharma over adharma and falls on Buda Kliwon Dungulan. Pagerwesi strengthens knowledge and faith and falls on Buda Kliwon Sinta. In most of Bali, Galungan is far bigger. In Buleleng they are kept on a comparable scale, but only Galungan raises penjor.

What is munjung? Munjung is Buleleng's Pagerwesi custom of visiting the cemetery with a punjung, a meal and offering. It is for relatives who are buried but not yet cremated. The family prays at the grave and then eats together there.

Can visitors see Pagerwesi? Yes, respectfully. Temples are busy in the morning, especially in Singaraja. Wear temple dress, stay at the back and leave the families at the cemeteries in peace.

Sources

Read next: Galungan and Kuningan, the Balinese calendar explained and Ngaben, the Balinese cremation.