Jamu: Indonesia's Herbal Medicine, and Bali's Loloh and Usada

Indonesia has a living herbal medicine more than a thousand years old, and its name is jamu. Turmeric, ginger, tamarind, leaves and roots are ground and pressed into drinks that people take for health. In Bali the same tradition goes by other names, loloh for the drinks and usada for the healing knowledge written on palm leaves. UNESCO lists jamu as heritage, a practice passed mostly between women, within families. You can taste it in north Bali at the roadside, or learn to make it in Munduk.

Young people drinking jamu poured from clay jugs on a hillside lawn, with a mountain behind
Young people drinking jamu poured from clay jugs on a hillside lawn, with a mountain behind. Photo: Wisnu Bangun Saputro / CC BY-SA 4.0.
On this page
  1. In Brief
  2. Jamu at a Glance
  3. Jamu Is Herbal Medicine That Balances Hot and Cold
  4. A Jamu Gendong Basket Holds Eight Drinks
  5. The Record Runs from Temple Reliefs to the Serat Centhini
  6. In Bali the Drinks Are Loloh and the Medicine Is Usada
  7. BPOM Grades Jamu by Its Evidence and Warns About Adulterated Products
  8. Where to Find Jamu and Loloh in North Bali
  9. How to Fit It In
  10. Practical Notes
  11. FAQ
  12. Sources

In Brief

Jamu is Indonesia's traditional herbal medicine, mostly fresh drinks of roots, leaves and spices such as turmeric, ginger and tamarind. Two well-known kinds are kunyit asam (turmeric and tamarind) and beras kencur (rice and kencur, an aromatic ginger).

UNESCO has inscribed "Jamu wellness culture" as intangible heritage. It describes a practice that dates to the eighth century and passes mostly between women, within families.

In Bali the drinks are called loloh, and the medicine behind them is usada, written on palm-leaf manuscripts. In north Bali you can buy loloh from roadside sellers or learn to make it in Munduk.

Indonesia's food and drug authority, BPOM, says jamu's benefits rest on generations of use rather than clinical trials. It also warns against illegal products spiked with drugs.

Jamu at a Glance

  • What it is: Indonesian herbal medicine, mostly fresh drinks, also powders, pills and ointments
  • Main ingredients: Turmeric, kencur (aromatic ginger), ginger, temulawak, tamarind, betel leaf, palm sugar
  • Heritage status: Inscribed by UNESCO in 2023 as "Jamu wellness culture"
  • Who makes it: Mostly women, with recipes handed down in families. Factories make it too, under BPOM registration
  • Balinese names: Loloh for the herbal drinks, usada for traditional medicine and its palm-leaf texts
  • Regulated by: BPOM, Indonesia's food and drug authority, which labels packaged products by level of evidence
  • In north Bali: Tuak loloh from roadside sellers in Buleleng, and loloh and jamu classes in Munduk

Jamu Is Herbal Medicine That Balances Hot and Cold

In UNESCO's words, jamu is "a form of herbal medicine and treatment", practised in Indonesia since the eighth century.

It rests on a principle of balance. In some traditional systems, illnesses are understood through hot-and-cold concepts, which guide the choice of remedies, and health is the balance between the two. The colours and shapes of plants are linked to the organs they are meant to help. Practitioners may use these remedies with the aim of supporting general well-being.

Most jamu makers are adult women. They often grow the herbs themselves and adjust a recipe to the customer's age, way of life and complaint.

The knowledge passes informally, within families and between neighbours, and is now also taught at universities. UNESCO notes that the practice rests on confidentiality and trust, and that it strengthens ties between people.

The word itself holds a clue to Bali. Kompas cites a history of jamu by Ernie H. Purwaningsih of the University of Indonesia's medical faculty. It explains jamu as a joining of djampi, a prayer or medicine, and oesodo or husada, health. Husada is the same word as Bali's usada.

A Jamu Gendong Basket Holds Eight Drinks

The image many Indonesians have of jamu is the jamu gendong seller.

She is a woman carrying a basket of bottles on her back in a cloth sling, going from house to house. BPOM calls her an authentic symbol of Indonesian culture.

A woman in a sarong sitting beside a basket of bottled jamu drinks, holding a glass of yellow jamu A jamu gendong seller with her basket of bottles in Yogyakarta. Photo: aa / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

The Surakarta city government lists eight drinks that a jamu gendong basket traditionally holds, and Kompas set out their ingredients. The uses given here are the traditional ones, not tested claims:

  • Kunyit asam: Turmeric, tamarind, palm sugar and salt. Sweet and sour, and the drink most associated with women's health, taken around menstruation.
  • Beras kencur: Rice and kencur (aromatic ginger), with ginger, tamarind water, turmeric and sugar. Slightly spicy, drunk against tiredness and to bring back an appetite.
  • Cabe puyang: Cabe jamu (Javanese long pepper) and puyang root, with turmeric and salt. For aches and a stiff back after hard work.
  • Pahitan: The bitter one, from sambiloto leaves, brotowali vine and alang-alang grass root.
  • Kunci suruh: Betel leaf with temu kunci (fingerroot).
  • Kudu laos: A warming mix of red ginger, kencur, cardamom, coriander and palm sugar.
  • Uyup-uyup: A blend of a dozen roots and leaves, including kencur, turmeric, ginger, temulawak and galangal, drunk by nursing mothers.
  • Sinom: Tamarind leaves with temulawak, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg and sugar. Sweet and mild.

Each taste also carries a meaning, which Kompas sets out stage by stage. The sweet and sour of kunyit asam stands for childhood. The bitterness of pahitan stands for the hard parts of life that still have to be swallowed. The sweetness of sinom stands for the return to God at the end.

A glass of iced yellow kunyit asam with a straw on a wooden table Kunyit asam, turmeric and tamarind, served over ice. Photo: Fitri Penyalai / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

The Record Runs from Temple Reliefs to the Serat Centhini

Kompas's account of the heritage nomination traces herbal healing through four records in Java:

  • Temple reliefs: at Borobudur and Prambanan in Central Java, and at Penataran in East Java.
  • The Madhawapura inscription: from the Majapahit period, it names a profession called acaraki, the herbal mixer, who meditated and fasted before preparing medicine.
  • Liyangan: stone mortars and pestles of the kind still used for jamu were found at this archaeological site on the slopes of Mount Sindoro in Central Java.
  • Serat Centhini: the Javanese classic, written between 1810 and 1823, holds a full written account of jamu.

European doctors studied jamu from the seventeenth century, and the first jamu factories opened in the early twentieth. Jamu is now sold as powders, pills and bottled drinks as well as fresh.

In Bali the Drinks Are Loloh and the Medicine Is Usada

Loloh, the Balinese herbal drinks

In Bali, the drink is loloh.

Wawan Sujarwo of the Bali Botanic Garden led a 2015 study of it in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology. The study describes loloh as herbal drinks made and drunk only in Bali, to prevent and treat ailments.

The team recorded 51 plant species from 32 families used in loloh. People take them for minor complaints, among them:

  • heartburn
  • fever
  • diarrhoea
  • high blood pressure
  • mouth ulcers

Most are boiled, some juiced. The plants people named most often were:

  • pule (Alstonia scholaris)
  • sembung (Blumea balsamifera)
  • cinnamon (Cinnamomum burmanni)
  • betel (Piper betle)

The best-known loloh is loloh cemcem from the village of Penglipuran in Bangli, made from wild kedondong leaves. It, and the drinks of Buleleng, are in the drinks of north Bali.

Usada, the written medicine

Behind the drinks sits usada, Balinese traditional medicine, recorded on lontar, the dried palm-leaf manuscripts. One of them, the Taru Pramana, is devoted to medicinal plants.

A study in Jurnal Kajian Bali examined the copy held at Leiden University Library and counted 182 plant species in it. The plants are prepared in six forms:

  • loloh, to drink
  • boreh, the herbal body paste
  • four other forms the text names: sembar, tutuh, tempel and ses

Two long lontar palm-leaf strips with Balinese script, photographed on a black background Leaves of a lontar usada, a Balinese medical manuscript, photographed in the village of Wanagiri. Photo: Eka343 / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

The healers who work from these texts are the balian usada, one of several kinds of Balinese healer. They are described in traditional healers in north Bali.

Singaraja's Gedong Kirtya library keeps lontar on medicine among its collection. Boreh also survives on spa menus. See the best spas in north Bali.

Buleleng's government has spoken up for the tradition. At a 2022 meeting in Singaraja, the then Regent, Putu Agus Suradnyana, asked that usadha Bali keep being developed. He described it as slower than chemical medicine and better suited to prevention.

His example was loloh: loloh paya gamongan, sambiroto or cinnamon when the throat starts to feel wrong.

BPOM Grades Jamu by Its Evidence and Warns About Adulterated Products

Jamu is regulated in Indonesia. BPOM puts herbal medicines into three classes, each with its own green logo on the pack:

  • Jamu (a tree in a green circle): benefits and safety based on empirical evidence, meaning use handed down through generations
  • Obat Herbal Terstandar, standardised herbal medicine (the tree with three stars): standardised ingredients and preclinical testing on animals
  • Fitofarmaka (a snowflake-like symbol): tested in clinical trials on people, the highest level

A pack with the jamu logo has not been through clinical trials, and its benefits are what generations of users report.

An elderly man mixing jamu at a market stall crowded with jars, bottles, eggs and packets of herbal powder A jamu seller mixing an order at his stall in a market in Boyolali, Central Java. Photo: Herusutimbul / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

One important safety concern, BPOM warns, is illegally adulterated jamu. These are illegal herbal products secretly mixed with pharmaceutical drugs to make them work faster.

Products for aches and pains (jamu pegal linu) have been found to contain painkillers and steroids that are not on the label, such as:

  • phenylbutazone
  • metamizole
  • piroxicam
  • paracetamol
  • dexamethasone

Some products contained sildenafil. When taken without appropriate medical supervision, these substances can cause serious adverse effects, including damage to the stomach, kidneys or liver, and cardiovascular complications.

BPOM traces that risk to these illegal products. Traditional jamu made within the rules, it says, is a different matter.

BPOM's advice is "Cek KLIK". Check four things on the pack, then look the number up on Cek BPOM before you buy:

  • the packaging
  • the label
  • the registration number
  • the expiry date

The World Health Organization takes the same line for traditional medicine everywhere. It supports countries that use traditional medicine. It also says an evidence-based approach is crucial, even for remedies used for a long time. That means establishing efficacy and safety through rigorous scientific testing.

Ask a doctor before you add a herbal remedy if you are pregnant or take regular medication. Healthcare in north Bali lists where to find one.

Where to Find Jamu and Loloh in North Bali

In north Bali you can drink it at the roadside, make it in a class in the hills, or buy it packaged.

Tuak loloh on the roadside. Buleleng's own herbal drink is tuak loloh. It is sweet, unfermented palm sap from the lontar palm, mixed with loloh pressed from belimbing and cinnamon leaves. Because the tuak has not fermented, it does not intoxicate.

When detikBali reported on it, the sellers worked from motorbikes at the roadside. One of them was regularly on Jalan Sudirman in Banyuasri, Singaraja.

Palm Living's list of local north Bali drinks adds a version from Banyuseri, sweet tuak over ice with loloh sembung.

Puri Lumbung Cottages, Munduk

What they offer, in their words: A "Local Herbal Medicine Class". Their local herbal medicine expert, with a translator, shows you how to make four loloh from fresh local ingredients.

Contact: purilumbung.com · Map

Puri Lumbung Cottages on Instagram

Munduk Tentrem Resort, Gobleg

What they offer, in their words: A "Jamu Making Experience" for guests. You grate and blend turmeric, ginger, lime and other fresh ingredients by hand, then drink the result with the mountain and sea view.

Contact: munduktentrem.com · Map

Munduk Tentrem Resort on Instagram

Packaged jamu. Sachets, pills and bottled drinks are sold widely. Look for the BPOM logo and number on the pack and check it on Cek BPOM.

How to Fit It In

Tuak loloh is a Singaraja errand. Combine it with a walk through the old town and the lontar library at Gedong Kirtya.

The Munduk classes belong to a night or two in the hills. The eco-lodges of Munduk compares the places to stay, and the Munduk guide covers the waterfalls and lakes around them.

Munduk is roughly an hour above the coast, and Palm Living's villas are mostly around Lovina. To see the hills in a day from there, a driver for the day covers Munduk, Wanagiri and Bedugul. The jamu session at Munduk Tentrem is for staying guests.

For the island's food, see what to eat in Bali.

Practical Notes

  • Tuak loloh is made with sweet, unfermented tuak. Fermented tuak is palm wine and does contain alcohol. The drinks of north Bali explains the difference.
  • Taste before you commit. Kunyit asam and beras kencur are sweet enough for a first try. Pahitan is bitter by design.
  • Check every packaged product for a BPOM number, and treat "works instantly" claims with suspicion.
  • Ask before photographing a seller or healer at work.

FAQ

What is jamu? Jamu is Indonesia's traditional herbal medicine, usually a drink of roots, leaves and spices such as turmeric, ginger, kencur and tamarind. It is passed down mostly by women and has been practised since the eighth century.

What is jamu made of? The two most common kinds are kunyit asam (turmeric, tamarind, palm sugar and salt) and beras kencur (rice and kencur with ginger and sugar). Others use temulawak, betel leaf, red ginger, long pepper and bitter leaves such as sambiloto.

Is jamu good for you? BPOM, Indonesia's food and drug authority, says jamu's benefits and safety rest on generations of use, not clinical trials. The WHO says long-used remedies still need scientific testing. The proven risk is illegal products spiked with drugs, so buy packaged jamu only with a BPOM number you can check.

What does jamu taste like? It depends on the kind. Kunyit asam is sweet and sour, beras kencur sweet and slightly spicy, kudu laos warming, and pahitan deliberately bitter.

What is the difference between jamu and loloh? Loloh is the Balinese word for herbal drinks of the same kind. A study recorded 51 plant species used in loloh, including pule, sembung, cinnamon and betel, and the knowledge behind them is usada, Bali's written medicine.

Where can I try jamu in north Bali? Look for tuak loloh, sweet palm sap mixed with herbal loloh, from roadside sellers around Singaraja. In the hills, Puri Lumbung Cottages in Munduk teaches a loloh class and Munduk Tentrem Resort runs jamu-making for guests.

Is jamu UNESCO heritage? Yes. "Jamu wellness culture" was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2023.

Sources

More on the island's remedies and rituals: melukat, the water purification, Balinese massage and the drinks of north Bali.